Sometimes it's not possible
to gain enough access to the area where the transfer must go so
you may find it necessary to use the wet method.
All you are doing here
is making decals from the transfers and then applying them as
you would any water slide decal.
I recommend that small
markings like these be applied first, even before weathering.
Apply a dull clear coat to give an even sheen to the model then
proceed to apply the larger insignias, code numbers, etc. I don't
apply any clear over the larger markings because I like the different
sheens. This does not seem to be a very popular idea, but it's
how I do it.
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TRANSFER
Begin by transferring the artwork onto Clear Decal Film. Follow
the same procedures in the first three steps of the dry method
system: transfer, lift and check, burnish.
Notice how the backing paper
is slid back only enough to expose the desired transfer while
protecting the other transfers from accidental transfer.
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TRIM
Carefully trim the clear film from around the artwork to remove
excess clear carrier film.
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GLOSS COAT
As with any other decal,
you should apply a coat of gloss paint or acrylic floor wax to
minimize silvering.
APPLY
Proceed to apply the trimmed transfer as you would any ordinary
decal. You can use setting solutions.
IMPORTANT NOTES: A mist coat of lacquer can be applied
if desired, but a heavy, wet coat of lacquer can cause certain
colors to bleed.
Any acrylic clear can be used
without fear of color bleed. It is only wet coats of solvent
based clears that will cause problems.
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Archer Fine
Transfers, Multi-Medium Transfer System, HighFlex, HighRes, PhotoFlex,
Precision Model Transfers, WetMedia Transfer Paper, Surface Details,
MultiMedia Transfer Set, Nose Art Upgrades, and the Archer logo
are Trademarks of Woody Vondracek.
All other trade names are the properties of their respective
owners and all other logos and business names are assumed to
be the property of others. |